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The Mosque-Cathedral. the Jewish Quarter & Its feline protectors. Salmorejo!
Hello! Welcome to our travel and experiences blog where we'll be posting about places we've been, food we've savored, and other fun things we've tried.
This is the first travel post! No pressure...
It was difficult to choose what this should be about, but I landed on Córdoba because it was a manageable experience to recount and, of course, one of our loveliest in Spain.
We wanted to visit this beautiful country in early November 2025, but the big question was - where should we go? Spain has so much to offer and there was no way our 2 week vacation would be enough to cover all regions, so we focused on southern areas given the time of the year. But again, the question came up - where should we go?
I asked a few friends who are much more well-traveled than we are for some advice. There was consensus on Seville and Granada (more to come on those in later posts), and Madrid/Barcelona were a given since we were flying into/out of these cities. One friend insisted on Córdoba and looked at me with disgust when I said we didn't have time to squeeze in another city. She said make time; it's not just "another city" and that it's a magical place!
Then came the solution thanks to Spain's wonderful rail system: a day trip to Córdoba from Seville! From the Sevilla Santa Justa station, we took a Renfe train to Córdoba which took less than 45 minutes. We had a lovely walk through various gardens and along outer walls of the Judería (Jewish Quarter) to get to our tour meeting point.
Córdoba gardens and outer walls of the Juderia
At this point, I was already enamored; it was love at first sight. Walking alongside the walls, so ancient, where so many had walked before us; it was almost overwhelming.
We met near Puerta del Puente (Bridge Gate, constructed in the 16th century) and walked along the river, which provided us great views of the Puente Romano de Córdoba (Roman Bridge of Córdoba). It's also known as the "Old Bridge", originally built in the 1st century BC by the Romans then rebuilt in the 8th century by the Arabs. We also saw an old watermill on the way to the Alcázar.
Puerta del Puente, Puente Romano de Córdoba, and Molino de la Albolafia
We arrived at the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos when the sun was starting to break through the clouds. November is not peak season so the crowds were minimal. The garden was peaceful and we could admire the fountains without much distraction. We headed inside to the Mosque-Cathedral, the main reason why we decided to visit Córdoba.
Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba
I was captivated the moment I stepped inside, and the feeling of being awestruck never stopped. I felt like I was transported to a different time, then somehow sped through time and watched history unfold before my eyes, told through the evolution of this monument's architecture.
Summary of its history:
- Pre-785 AD: It was originally a Roman temple dedicated to Janus, the god of beginnings, gates, transitions, time, duality, doorways, passages, and endings (very appropriate).
- 785 AD: It transitioned to a mosque, which is when the columns and red-and-white double arches were constructed.
- 9th-10th centuries: Various rulers expanded it, including the addition of the mihrab lined with gold mosaics.
- 1236 AD: It was transitioned to a Catholic cathedral, but thankfully they left most of the Islamic architecture intact.
- 16th century: The church added a Christian cathedral in the middle of the Moorish arches.
It was a wonderful experience! When we stepped outside, we both knew how lucky we were to have been able to walk through this magical site. At that point, I figured we saw most of what Córdoba had to offer.
We were wrong.
We walked out into the Judería and our senses were mesmerized by the lovely streets, the artisans, delicious smells, the chatter. We could feel the buzz all around us.
In peak season, the patios are heavily decorated. In fact, there's an event, Festival de los Patios, that occurs in May where residents strut their stuff and go all out on patio flowers and decor. I'd like to go back one day for this event, but the drawback is it comes with heavy crowds.
We also met some feline friends.
The cats in the Judería are legally and culturally protected. For centuries, cats have been kept throughout Andalusia to protect granaries, food cellars, and homes from rodents. Street cats across Córdoba are recognized not as random strays, but as community cats (gatos comunitarios).
We stopped to watch this cute kitty drink from the fountain before moving on to wander within the walls.
We were getting hungry and we heard the spot to be was Casa Pepe for the iconic salmorejo. We didn't have reservations so we put our names on the waitlist in hopes of getting a table, and we did!
Salmorejo cordobés is a rich, chilled Andalusian purée made by blending ripe tomatoes, stale crusty bread, extra virgin olive oil, and garlic into a thick, velvety emulsion and topped with cured jamón serrano. It was delicious and lived up to the hype. The recipe was graciously posted on a street wall.
Salmorejo at Casa Pepe de la Judería. Authentic salmorejo recipe posted in the Judería.
After our late lunch (late to Jon and me, probably normal time for locals), we headed back to the train station and arrived just in time to miss a downpour. It started raining buckets while we waited for our train to arrive!
Our day in Córdoba was filled with everything I was hoping for on this trip - history, something uniquely Cordoban, and the indescribable, humbling feeling of being small in the presence of grandness.
